The History of Passementerie and its use in Todays Interiors

'Passementerie' is a term used to describe braids, cords, gimps, bullion fringe, pompoms, tassels, tiebacks, rosettes and all manner of decorative fringes ranging from the traditional hanger fringes to more contemporary beaded items, in fact any item that is used as an embellishment to clothing or soft furnishings. The literal translation of the 'passementier' is someone who makes and sells trimmings made of gold, silver, silk, wool etc. and it is from this that the most popular understanding stems. The use of trimmings accentuates the shape and construction of a room's soft furnishings, and they are an imperative finishing touch to an interior.

The true origins of passementerie are unknown; however tassels and decorative trim have been used in both fashion and interiors for centuries. The use of tassels in particular has been documented throughout many cultures and periods of history, being depicted in ancient Egyptian tomb paintings dating as far back as 1300 B.C. and even being used during the Samurai era as a means of adding distinction to armour and weaponry. Formal tassels may have originated in China, where, according to legend, when the emperor's subjects approached him, they held the silk pendants on their court robes in their hands to assure that their voluminous sleeves concealed no weapons. As far back as Medieval times ribbon weavers and braid makers were involved in the decoration of ecclesiastical robes and furnishings, military and ceremonial wear as well as for the domestic interior of the wealthy.

Hand made trimmings were popular in Italy in the 15th and early 16th Century although they were rarely used elsewhere. The 16th Century saw the French perfecting the art of passementerie, but it reached its pinnacle in the 17th Century with the founding of a passementerie Guild in 1653 and the construction of Louis XIV's Palais de Versailles. The Industrial Revolution saw the introduction of power-driven machinery making it possible for previously hand-made items to be mass produced giving access to what previously only the wealthy could afford. The Georgian period also saw the upper classes taking the 'Grand Tour' around Europe, particularly Italy and it is likely that they experienced the popularity of passementerie whilst there. The Victorian era was epitomised by rich decoration and the new affordability of trimmings meant that their use was taken to new heights, however during the Depression and World War II, the allure of passementerie dwindled. Once the war was over, new discoveries in chemical dyes and artificial fibres, combined with simpler designs lead to a resurgence of popularity that has continued until today.

Passementerie adds luxury, definition, texture and creativity and is the finishing touch that ties a room together and gives it character. Today's use of trimmings within a particular period of home will depend on how much of a 'purist' the home owner is. As discussed the use of passementerie in England, only reached its pinnacle in Georgian and Victorian times and unfortunately was never well documented. A household would not make a record of when trim was added, or changed, often being part of a general refurbishment. It was even reported that if a particular trim was still in good condition then it may be unpicked and applied to new curtains, making the accuracy of archival information impossible to determine. This allows today's home owner to take inspiration from the past without slavishly conforming to the traditions of yesteryear. In general most elaborate trims were reserved for formal, traditional interiors, with some periods using more trim than others.

In each era of décor the tassels and associated forms could be found in different styling suitable to the period. In a smaller neoclassic room the fringe and accessories were smaller in size and more refined and delicate. Trimmings to use for this period of home would include fringes created from wooden shaped moulds, laced together with shaped flowers covered with fine silks held on a trellis heading. Many variations of this type of fringe are available as well as tiebacks with matching hangers in the skirt.

18th Century Georgian styling was influenced by the orient and was more sumptuous in style. Silk or shiny viscose trimmings and tiebacks with elaborate decoration including flowers, netting and tassels should be used for this period. Early Georgian traditional colours include burgundy, sage green and blue grey, later becoming lighter to include pea green, sky or Wedgewood blue, soft grey dusky pink, white or stone.

The Victorian age was the age of imitation and reproduction, expressed through an eclectic mix of styles and excessive ornamentation. When decorating a Victorian interior in true style it is imperative that all rugs, pillows, curtains, lampshades, cushions and upholstery are elaborately embellished. The Victorian colour palette was sometimes quite limited because chemical processes were still developing so rich dark colours such as ruby red and forest greens are typical of the time, purple and blue came in by the middle of the century. Victorian period Fabrics such as velvets, serges, damasks and tapestries all require a faded decorative trimming to compliment their richness.

The most important thing when choosing trimmings is for them to be shown off to their fullest potential, they should not match the fabric so exactly that they cannot be seen, but neither should they jump out at you.

We hope you have as much fun choosing your trimmings as we have had in developing them.